A delicious visit: the Gaucho tours the El Porteño Empanadas facilities

April 10th, 2013

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Posted in Argentine food/culture, Local/Sustainable, SF Bay Area | No Comments » by The Gaucho

El Porteno Empanadas

Recently, Mrs. Gaucho and I had the good fortune to visit the production facilities of El Porteño Empanadas. Like most Argentines, founder Joseph Ahearne, was running a little late. We waited patiently and finally followed his car past a rickety security gate, towards a stripped down concrete building, and stopped in a remote parking lot, where we would later eat lunch among some tools and tumbleweed.

Ahearne’s kitchen facilities in San Francisco’s Hunters Point are rustic and humble—much like the origins of the Argentina’s most famous comfort food—but this has no bearing on the absolutely delicious empanadas being created within its confines.

Founded in 2007 in San Francisco, El Porteño’s menu includes six savory options (the beef, chicken and mushroom options are the most popular), two sweet empanadita flavors, and three types of Argentine biscuit-cookies known as alfajores. They are currently sold at the San Francisco Ferry Building, Bay Area farmers markets, and are now available through local Whole Foods stores.

Ahearne gave us a tour of the kitchen, explained the origins of the company, and treated us to a delicious lunch (featuring items from their catering menu) of beef brochetas con chimichurri, ensalada mixta, maiz, and housemade alfajores for dessert.

El Porteno Meeting

Ahearne grew up in Napa as part of family deeply connected to the area’s food and restaurant scene. His mother, originally from Argentina, taught Ahearne the family recipe for empanadas. His sister, who has a culinary background including a stint as a pastry chef, helped perfect the empanada dough for El Porteño. The result is a fluffy, flaky crust that is similar to French pastry dough rather than the harder, drier crusts that one often finds with other empanadas. The company also uses local and seasonal ingredients in many of its empanadas including Prather Ranch organic dry-aged grass-fed beef; Fulton Valley all-natural chicken; organic Far West Fungi mushrooms; local chard; and housemade dulce de leche. Read the rest of this entry »

Chimichurri: Dry Rub Edition

April 9th, 2013

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Posted in Argentine food/culture, Hardwood Grilling, Recipes | 1 Comment » by The Gaucho

Spices

Dry rubs for meat are not particularly prevalent in South American grilling, but they are in the United States. Certain American barbecue geographies–Memphis, in particular–place a heavy emphasis on rubbing meat with a concoction of spices before putting it on the grill.  The result is a heavily-seasoned end product which adds flavor to the grilled meat and extracts the juices during the cooking process.

In this spirit, I created my own crossover rub: chimichurri dry rub.  As you know, I absolutely love the traditional Argentine chimichurri sauce on my meat.  This dry rub, however, can be used as a substitute to impart similar yet subtler flavors from its saucy counterpart.  It can be used in a pinch if fresh ingredients for salsa de chimichurri are not available.  Best of all, it consists of simple, easy to find ingredients that you can get on the spice aisle of your local supermarket.

Here’s the recipe:

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The best beef chart I’ve come across in a while

April 2nd, 2013

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Posted in Argentine food/culture, Butchery, Recipes | No Comments » by The Gaucho

I recently came across this terrific “Cuts of Beef” chart on LifeHacker.com and was compelled to share it.  While this chart is only in English and lists American names for cuts of beef, it also provides helpful information on the best cooking methods for each cut as well as the applicable price points.

If you want to know what these cuts of beef are called in certain Latin American countries, refer to Gaucho Garcia’s own beef chart which you can find here.

 

A haiku

March 1st, 2013

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Posted in Argentina | No Comments » by The Gaucho

 

I am an admirer of the Japanese form of poetry known as “haiku“.  In learning more about what makes a “proper” haiku, beyond the (somewhat erroneous) notion of the 5-7-5 syllable construction, I decided to try my hand at writing my own.  Having been fascinated at the reversal of seasons between the northern and southern hemispheres, I came up with this:

Blistering hot sun

on a January day.

South America.

Photo essay of Patagonian gauchos

February 21st, 2013

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Posted in Argentina, Argentine food/culture, Gauchos, Travel | 2 Comments » by The Gaucho

 

I often tend to think of gauchos in the past tense–a relic of days gone by whose livelihood and culture has been passed over by modern times.  But of course that’s not true.  Gauchos exist today in many parts of South America and continue their proud work of riding horses, driving cattle, and tending to the pampas.

This photo essay, by Andrea at InspiringTravellers.com, was a pleasant reminder of the hard work that goes into being a modern gaucho.

(c) Andrea, InspiringTravellers.com

(c) Andrea, InspiringTravellers.com

Che Diego! brings Argentine cuisine to Beijing

January 24th, 2013

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Posted in Argentine food/culture, News, Restaurant Reviews, Travel | No Comments » by The Gaucho

China’s growing economy and surging middle class has lead to an increased cosmopolitan culture in many of its cities. One result is the expansion of “exotic” dining experiences not often found in the Far East. Many urban Chinese, replete with additional discretionary income, are looking to spend it in restaurants offering non-traditional cuisine.

Sensing this, Diego Kuo, a 33-year old Buenos Aires native, opened Che Diego! this past December, Beijing’s second Argentinean restaurant in the city and the first one run by an actual Argentine.

Diego Kuo, owner of Beijing’s first Argentine-run restaurant

As Jiang Yuxia notes in her Global Times article on Che Diego!:

Spearheaded by Argentinian chef Maria Olivera and barbecue master Luis Garcia, it has been sought out by both locals and expats who are eager to sample its unique Argentine offerings. Among the most popular, according to Kuo, are asado, or Argentine-style barbecue, the empanada appetizer and a stew known as locro.

With more Argentine restaurants popping up in China as well as the award-winning Porteño in Sydney, Australia, it is clear that Argentine cuisine is starting to make its mark in the eastern hemisphere. Let’s hope this becomes a worldwide trend.

Top 7 reasons why Argentine asado is the best barbecue in the world

January 18th, 2013

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Posted in Argentina, Argentine food/culture, Travel | No Comments » by The Gaucho

Asado1

Barbecue is a method of cooking loved by many cultures around the world. There are numerous global variations: East Asian barbecuing like Japanese robata grilling and Korean barbecue; Pacific Island barbecue as found in the Philippines and Hawaii, Middle Eastern kabob grilling, and the familiar regional variants in America from Kansas City to Texas to Memphis to the Carolinas.  But for my money, nothing will ever beat an Argentine asado.

It has been said that the word “barbecue”, taken from the Spanish word barbacoa, means “sacred fire pit.” In my mind, no other barbecue culture encapsulates this idea better than the one found in Argentina. An asado epitomizes the sacred concept of meal-as-ritual. Every aspect of the asado has meaning, purpose, and dedication. The result is an unparalleled barbecue experience that reflects the time, effort, and love put into it.

Here are my “Top 7 Reasons why Argentine Asado is the Best Barbecue in the World”:

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When less is more: scaling back your asado

January 8th, 2013

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Posted in Argentine food/culture, Hardwood Grilling, Recipes | No Comments » by The Gaucho

This past New Year’s Eve, I decided to have an asado with several close friends and their families.  In all, we had about 12 people.  In thinking through the menu, I decided to scale back the items that I would be grilling and it was met with tremendous success.

 Our menu for the evening consisted of:

  • 2 baguettes
  • 4 wheels of provoleta
  • 20 chicken-cheese empanadas
  • 3 lbs. of chorizo
  • 1 lb. of morcilla
  • 5 lb. leg of lamb
  • chimichurri and salsa criolla

I preferred a smaller asado for New Year’s Eve because I wanted to visit with friends, have some drinks, and not slave over the parrilla all night.  This menu was just right.  The key was having a several “quick cooking” items coupled with one “slow cooking” item that stayed on the grill for several hours.  The result was a consistent pacing of dishes throughout the night that kept guests satisfied, but still wanting more.  And when the main dish of lamb was served, people were still hungry enough to dig in without being full from so many prior items.

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The Zen of firewood

November 15th, 2012

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Posted in Argentine food/culture | No Comments » by The Gaucho

 

 

I recently read this passage from Alan Watts’s, The Way of Zen, and was reminded of the many times I’ve sat quietly watching my wood burn down to coals in preparation for an asado.  It is a quote from Dogen’s Shobogenzo:

When firewood becomes ashes, it never returns to being firewood.  But we should not take the view that what is latterly ashes was formerly firewoord.  What we should understand is that, according to the doctrine of Buddhism, firewood stay at the position of firewood…There are former and later stages, but these stages are clear cut.

In the spirit of Zen, I will not elaborate any further.  I leave it to the contemplation of the reader.

Take it down a notch: tips for mellowing your garlic and onions

November 5th, 2012

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Posted in Argentine food/culture, How To, Recipes | No Comments » by The Gaucho

Let’s face it, garlic and onions are powerfully pungent foods.  They can stay on your breath and hands for hours after preparation or consumption.  Yet, they are also staple ingredients of Argentinean cuisine (and its Mediterranean roots)…so how can you prepare your favorite dishes and condiments without all of the bitter harshness that raw garlic and onion can bring?  Try some of these simple tips in your next recipe:

GARLIC

Boil the peeled garlic cloves in salted water for 5 minutes prior to including them in your dish.
In a small saucepan, combine 2 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil.  While waiting for the water to boil, peel your garlic cloves and leave them whole.  Once boiling, place your garlic cloves in the water for 5 minutes.  Remove from the water, let them cool, and prepare them according to your recipe.

I recently experimented with this method while making my latest batch of chimichurri.  It worked quite well in reducing the garlic’s pungency without taking away any of the flavor.  Clearly, garlic is the most forward ingredient in chimichurri, but the biggest complaint that people have is that is stays on your breath all day.  By employing this method, you can create a subtle change that makes the sauce equally as delicious for guests without having it linger on their palate.

ONIONS

For onions that are still crisp/crunchy, but mild in flavor: Salt and soak onions in cold water for 15-30 minutes.
After slicing, chopping, or mincing your onions, rinse them in a colander under cold water.  Let drain.  Add 1 teaspoon salt per 1 whole onion (e.g. use ½ teaspoon salt for ½ sliced or chopped onion).  Mix salt into the onion with your hands.  Let sit 5 minutes in colander over a bowl.  Then, fill the bowl with cold water covering the surface of the onions for the remaining 10-25 minutes.  Drain onions thoroughly and, if necessary, pat dry with paper towel.

For onions that softer and sweeter: Pour hot or boiling water over the onions then rinse with cold water to stop the cooking (Optional: add sugar to enhance sweetness if desired).
After slicing, chopping, or mincing your onions, rinse them in a colander under hot or boiling water for about a minute.  Let drain. (Optional: to enhance sweetness, add 1 teaspoon sugar per 1 whole onion.  Mix sugar into the onion with your hands.)  Then, fill the bowl with cold water covering the surface of the onions for the 10-15 minutes to stop the cooking.  Drain onions thoroughly and, if necessary, pat dry with paper towel.

I use the first method above when preparing my salsa criolla for asados.  Because salsa criolla also contains crispy bell peppers, I like to keep the onions crunchy to maintain the texture.  The second method I tend use when making Mexican salsas, hot sauces, and empanada filling.  Experiment for yourself as to which method might be appropriate for your recipe, but one thing is for certain: following either of these methods will reduce the harshness of the onion in your recipe but retain that essential “oniony” flavor.

Meet The Gaucho

Simply put: I'm a North American in love with South American barbecue. I first learned the art of asado several years ago from my wife's family in Argentina and since that time, my mission has been to bring the joy of hardwood grilling to as many others as possible ...Read more

About The Site

Gaucho Garcia aims to be the definitive English language resource on the topic of South American hardwood grilling. Despite the popularity of the asado throughout South America and the rest of the world, there seems to be little information available for English speakers on the subject. In that respect, Gaucho Garcia will serve as a forum for individuals who share the same passion for hardwood grilling ...Read more

What is a Gaucho?

Gaucho is a term commonly used to describe residents of the South American pampas or Patagonian grasslands, found principally in parts of Argentina, Uruguay, Southern Chile, and Southern Brazil. The word gaucho could be described as a loose equivalent to the North American "cowboy", but the culture of gauchos is distinctly South American. Gauchos often led a nomadic life as they herded cattle throughout large swaths of the continent. With no way of preserving meat while on the range, gauchos would butcher a head of cattle and immediately cook it over an open fire. This was the origin of the first asado and is a tradition still popular today.